How to Start Beekeeping in 6 Easy Steps

      1. Get a couple of books on Beekeeping.  You have generally 3 choices of hives; the Langstroth type hive, top bar hives, and the Warre hive; we’ll talk about them in step 3.  I really think the Beekeeping for Dummies book works just fine for someone starting with a Langstroth hive.  For the top bar hives I recommend The Barefoot Beekeeper book because you can go to the Biobees website and get free plans to build your own hive and use The Barefoot Beekeeper book to operate it.  If you are interested in the Warre Hive then The Garden Hive Construction Guide is the best, most affordable solution to get you started with the Warre Hive. This book actually tells you how to build a beehive.  These hives are very easy to build but they are available readymade as well.

2. Find a mentor and/or join a club.  There is just no substitute for a good mentor; they can make the journey into beekeeping a very pleasant trip.  It is important to be up front with them if they are traditional beekeepers and you want to go the natural route.  While the concept may be out of step with their normal behavior they will at least find you amusing and try to help as they know how bees behave.  If you are building a Langstroth hive they will know exactly what to do.  If you are building a Kenya Top Bar Hive KTBH then they may be intrigued enough to help, again with a vast knowledge of bee behavior.  My traditional beekeeper mentor actually bought a KTBH full of bees from me and the last we spoke all is well and it has been 2 years now.  The mentor can also help with such things as providing some old brood comb to start your hives, setting up bait hives, retrieving swarms, doing cutouts, or may even provide you with a few frames of bees.  The later isn’t necessary if you get bees by any other method.

     3. Build or buy a hive.  Let’s look at hives briefly starting with the most common, the Langstroth.  This is the hive that is most often seen as you are out riding in the car and has been the hive of choice for over 100 years.  It is designed to be manipulated to suit the needs of the beekeeper.  The Langstroth hive is quite expensive when all is said and done but it is a onetime expense and the hives can last a very long time.  I would recommend the cypress hives in 8 frame format for longevity and ease of operation (lighter lifting).  I got my cypress hives from Simpson’s Bee Supply in Ohio.  The owner Carlton Simpson wanted me to use all mediums as that is what most folks request for the cypress.  But I wanted the standard 2 hive bodies and 2 medium supers as the basic hive.  I also added 4 shallow supers to use for honey.  You can still apply natural beekeeping methods to the Langstroth hive by avoiding some of the manipulations used by the traditional beekeepers.  I recommend you join the beekeepers forum at Beesource regardless of how you plan to keep bees as there are sections for the various types of beekeeping.  I am also a member of the Beemaster forum that you will find equally interesting.

The KTBH Kenya Top Bar Hive is a great way to start beekeeping because you can build a beehive hive yourself for under $50 and perhaps way under if you have suitable scrap available.  This is where you get the Build a KTBH plans for free from Biobees and get the accompanying book to guide you along.  But wait, it gets better…You can join the Natural Beekeepers Network a forum that supports the KTBH and have a tremendous resource available for gathering with like minded folks.  This is where I started.  Honestly, I like the KTBH better for backyard beekeeping.  Or if you just want to buy a top bar hive then here is a great deal on a KTBH

If the Warre hive meets your fancy then you should definitely check out The Garden Hive Construction Guide.

     4. Order bees or plan to bait bees.  You have several ways to get your first colony of bees.  I started with a cutout from a barn that the farmer wanted gone.  You can get a swarm from just about anywhere if you get on a swarm list.  You can order 2 or 3 pound packages or a 5 frame nucleus colony from bee suppliers but you should order early; like now.  If you are extra lucky your mentor may help set you up with a few frames of bees with some queen cells to get you started.  You can also set up bait hives to catch feral swarms by putting out smaller versions of your hives as the bait hives and get free honeybees.

5. Get supplies from wherever hives are sold.  There are a few beekeeping tools you will need to tend your bees safely.  You should have a veil, some gloves, a hive tool, and a smoker.  If you only want to buy one thing then that should be the veil as you don’t want to get stung in the eye.  The second thing I use is the hive tool, followed by the gloves but I very rarely use the smoker.

     6. Run your mouth to anyone and everyone that you are a new beekeeper.  Burn all your bridges and don’t look back.  You just go about telling friends and family that you are a new beekeeper and if they hear of any swarms then they need to give you a call.  Make up business cards on your computer and hand them out to anyone that will take one.  You want folks to think of you when they spot that swarm in the bush behind their house.  Just one swarm call or cutout and you are in business.  Lastly, If you made it all the way to this sentence without skipping ahead; I do believe you are already a beekeeper and you just didn’t know it yet.  So go forth, get some bees and be a good steward.  As always feel free to contact me if you need help.

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Free Mason Bees – Quick and Easy

Get set up for mason bees or other solitary bees now.

This is the season to get all straightened out for the spring season.  If you have to pull tubes or straws now is a good time to do it.  If you need to order reeds or starter kits there is no time to waste as the season will be here before you know it.  This is also a great time to replace the tubes in your nest blocks.

If this is your first season then you should read this section to get ready.  We have a complete line of books available on the solitary bees and other native pollinators.

If you have ever considered hosting Mason Bees, Hornfaced Bees, Alfalfa Leafcutter Bees, or any other Solitary Bees then check out our page on mason bees.

We always use this time in mid winter to swap out the tubes full of cocoons with fresh parchment paper and store the bees in a box that will be used in the spring as a release box.  View care instructions here.  Lots of folks like to open the tubes, then inspect, and clean the cocoons.  I do not do that; I like to leave them undisturbed in the parchment paper tubes until they emerge.  If you are inspecting and cleaning then that should be done in late summer or early fall.

We have really enjoyed keeping the mason bees; they are so easy.  I can’t think of a better project to do with your children (or children with your parents) than raising solitary bees.  One becomes so much more connected with the earth when one follows the actions of the bee.  You quickly learn to recognize the bees out and about.  You can watch what direction they go.  You can see the pollen under their belly.  And unlike honeybees you can observe the mating.  You get to watch predatory wasps agitating your bees or in time you will be able to differentiate between the mason and the cuckoo bee that is trying to lay eggs in the mason bee nest.  I can’t imagine that when the fascination of what they are doing sets in, that one would not develop a better understanding of the beauty of nature.

As always, I’m here to help you all I can; so contact me if you have any questions and thank you for supporting Daves’ Bees.

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Skunked

Our bees are all gone. We left Ohio with 3 hives; 1 overstuffed 10 frame and 2 – 8 frame hives. By the time we got to Maine the 10 frame had suffocated; it was a terrible mess. The smaller hives seemed to have made it just fine and were set on concrete blocks. The problems began when we set out house hunting and failed to monitor the bees. We were gone all day for weeks and got home late so there was no chance to see what the bees were doing. Turns out the real problem was there while we were home…skunks! We even smelled them several nights in a row. My father reported that the bees looked very weak at a time when they should have been booming.  That night I smelled a skunk and had my first consideration that perhaps skunks were eating my bees. Investigation with a flashlight found no sign of Mr Stinky but the next morning I spotted the telltale scratches on the hive entrances left by the skunk. I had been given plenty of warning by the skunks but was just to involved with other things to take the threat seriously.  I was actually very concerned that our hives would be destroyed by bears. It appears that my attention was grossly misdirected. It is obvious now that the skunks were returning every night to dine on our bees as though we were providing them to them as a courtesy. By the time I woke up it was too late and the bees had been weakened to the point of no return.  We subsequently found a house and moved the hives there. We got some honey and let the neighbors bees rob out the nectar. I picked out a couple of wax worms and have the hives in the barn for the winter. The entrances are blocked so that mice don’t destroy the comb. We will put out bait hives in the spring to repopulate and set them up to resist the skunks. It is never fun to lose bees but at least we’ll be starting fresh with local bees.

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Swarms Galore

We have had a really great start to the swarm season here in the Wheeling area.  There are no empty Dave’s Bees originated hives.  The dead out was filled with a great swarm retrieved in a cardboard box and it is doing well.  Then we got the swarm I’m holding
from my friends’ apiary when it swarmed out of thier KTBH.

Dave holding a swarm from friends' KTBH

Dave holding a swarm from friends' KTBH

We put that in an empty bait hive since their apiary was growing faster than the hives and it absconded the next day.  That was not a big problem as they had a bait hive up in the area and it had a colony move in.  My friends frantically built another KTBH and the bait hive colony is sitting on top of the new KTBH and is scheduled to go in on Sunday June 11.  Then the same friends got a second swarm in the yard and that got put in the only remaining KTBH from Dave’s Bees.  But the story is not over; got another nice swarm in a bait hive that is going to a fledgling natural beekeeper with a brand spanking new KTBH on Monday June 12.  Last but not least…we put our old rickety hive out as a bait hive and 4 days later we had new tenants.

Bait Hive

This bait hive had a swarm move in 4 days after we put it out.

This presents a new problem for us; finding room in the car to transport them to Maine.
Speaking for myself…that’s it for this swarm season!

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Screened Mason Bee Blocks

The Mason bees are done for this year at Dave’s Bees.  We decided to put a screen over the front of the blocks to keep the woodpeckers and wasps from opening the holes.  We used aluminum window screen with push pins to hold it in place.  These blocks could stay right where they are until late winter before the tubes are changed out.

Screened Mason Bee Blocks

Large and small Mason bee blocks screened to keep out intruders.

The screen is just slipped in between the blocks and wrapped around the small block then pinned with the push pins.  With the large block the screen is simply folded on gift wrap style and held with the push pins.

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Honeybee Survival Report 2010 – 2011

We presently have just 2 Langstroth hives with no intention to expand prior to moving to Maine.  These 2 hives actually went to Maine and back last fall and wintered well back here in Ohio.   That leaves the 2 populated Langstroth hives and 4 populated KTBHs that were sold to folks in Ohio and Pennsylvania.  I have contacted the new owners; only 1 KTBH didn’t make it.  So that is 7 out of 8 that made it.  The KTBH that died probably succumbed to the Varroa Mites.  However the bees left plenty of honey behind and the new owners are enjoying eating it.  And…just this week we received a swarm call and retrieved a nice swarm and repopulated the empty KTBH…all is well.  Much thanks to the homeowner that called us to come get the bees.  They went to a natural beekeeper and have a great new home where they can care for themselves as nature intended.  Now there is one Dave’s Bees KTBH that was sold empty and it is presently set up as a bait hive and waiting for bees; next swarm goes to that hive.  Yes that’s right…If you are the owner of that hive… its official… we are targeting your hive next.

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Poison in our Food

Imidacloprid and Clothianidin are Killing Bees…is that all they are killing?

You should first search “systemic pesticides” to learn how they work.

Don’t take my word for it, do your homework, this is very important!

I typed the following in my yahoo search box “Imidacloprid and Maine Blueberries” and found lot’s of information.

Bee Research at The University of Maine 2010 http://www.extension.org/pages/26331/bee-research-at-the-university-of-maine-2010

Maine’s bee population taking hard hits from weather, illness and
chemicals

http://new.bangordailynews.com/2011/05/08/outdoors/maine%e2%80%99s-bee-population-taking-hard-hits-from-%c2%a0weather-illness-and-chemicals/

Cooperative Extension: Maine’s Native Wild Blueberries

Insects – 209-Insect Control Guide for Wild Blueberries http://extension.umaine.edu/blueberries/factsheets/insects/209-insect-control-guide-for-wild-blueberries/

This is important because blueberries are touted as a super food.  Using systemic chemicals on them!  How does that fit the health profile for this food?  It takes a little extra work to find, buy, and eat organic but you can do it.  That would be another
search.  “Organic Maine Blueberries

It is not my intent to pick on any one crop or state here.  I searched this after watching the movie Vanishing of the Bees.

Tip for searching your crop of interest.  First pick one of the following systemic chemicals: imidacloprid, acetamiprid, clothianidin, nitenpyram, thiacloprid, or thiamethoxam.

Next add your crop.  This can be fruits, vegetables, cereal or grain, animal feed crops; It doesn’t really matter what combination you use the results will be the same…Poison!

Lastly, if you want area info. add the state or region.

Example Search: Clothianidin and Idaho potatoes

Go ahead… give it a try!   Most any combination will tell you all you need to know right there in the first page of the results.

Systemic Pesticides: Chemicals You Can’t Wash Off                                           Washing or peeling fruits and vegetables before you eat them won’t protect you from systemic pesticides.  Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/systemic-pesticides-zm0z10zrog.aspx#ixzz1j0W0pQdr

Now that you know what these chemicals are, how they are used, and that they cannot be washed off because they are in the food; find out what  they are doing to the bees.  Search “clothianidin and honeybees”or “imidacloprid and honeybees“.

Final note…Unless you are an all organic family; you are eating this stuff every day.

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Nest Block Behavior Video

This is how the mason bee nest blocks look in the last week of April.  This is when Eastern Redbud is available and the mason bees are working on it.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-nNzIOtv-c

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Blue Orchard Mason Bee Release Box

The screen on the release box works fine.  It is very simply a 6-8 inch tube of window screen rolled up and secured with 2 pieces of wire then duct taped to the box.  I drilled the hole in the box with a 3/8 inch bit (yes I drilled the cardboard box because it gave me the right size hole) then put the end of the tube in the hole and spread it open a little bit to anchor it in the hole.  Make sure a pencil will go all the way through the tube so the bees can crawl out.  On the outside I used the duct tape to help hold the tube in place and put it out so the bees could emerge naturally.  I watched the bees for a while and found both males and females that would be flying around the entrance of the box but not out at the end of the tube, so it works just fine.  

Bee Blocks

The release Box is on the left and the two Mason Bee Blocks are Middle and right.

 

The females are working hard and are easy to find on dandelions or fruit trees.  At this point if you are in zone 6 and your mason bees are not out you are procrastinating.  If you are north of us it is time to get them out for natural emergence.   It is amazing to me that folks take the time, money, and/or effort to get set up for the season then don’t follow through with simply putting out the bees or nest boxes….off your butts people.  If you are a timed emergence aficionado obviously you get a pass on this but for the rest of us now is the time.

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Mason Bees Are Checking In

We have action in the Mason bee nest blocks.  So we are in zone 6 Ohio; if you are north of us you better get your Mason bee nest blocks out.  It is still a little early here but the first plums and cherries are out.  The mason bees are finding forage on other things as well.  The bees will charge up here in the next week so don’t wait too long to take action.  The season for us will go through mid June at least so you do have some time to provide for your mason bees.  The honeybees are really rolling too!  They have started on the dandelions, toothwort, and henbit.  For wild trees we’ve seen a couple of choke cherries starting to bloom.  They were able to really pack in the pollen so today it was nectar all the way.

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